Wednesday 28th May 2014
Col de la Echelles and Col d’Izoard
STATS
Depart: Bessans 09:35
Arrive: Barcelonette 16:35
Distance driven: 143 miles (Note: Diversion from Rte des Gnd Alpes into Italy due to Col du Galibier Closure)
Wednesday, 28 May 2014
Tuesday, 27 May 2014
Day 2 Le Grand Bornand to Bessans
Tuesday 27th May 2014
L'Alpage was lovely with a comfy bed and nice decor involving a lot of wood. There were a few other people but as the Restaurant was closed except for us residents we only saw three other guests.
A superb Savoyard Fondue with salad and nuts was served as our meal. The owner was chatty and we learnt that you keep the heat on but constantly stir and fold it. The bread served should be two days old in preference so as to soak the juice without falling apart before coating in the cheese from deeper. The house white wine was excellent and we followed with a shared Raspberry sorbet with stunning flavour.
We loved the meal and the atmosphere but definitely OD'd on cheese which may have been the reason that I developed a very dodgy stomach during the night causing us to lose a lot of sleep and leaving me to be feeling delicate for much of the following day. (note: there was nothing wrong with the food or service, it was just my reaction to so much melted cheese and wine.)
We were jumped awake by the sound of bells outside and looked out of the window to see a herd of sheep with bells around their necks being shepherded along the street outside. Breakfast was good, though a little tentative for me as above.
The weather was very disappointing. When we first opened or curtains we couldn't see anything through thick mist and for the entire morning we drove in rain and mist with only rare and very limited views from the roads and none of mountain tops.
Today we already knew that we could not follow the Rte. des Granges Alpes as the Col de l'Iseran (Val d'Isere) is still closed and will remain so to around 6th June. The alternative plan was to follow the Route over Col d'Arivis and Col du Saizes then cross the Cormet de Roseland as far as Bourg St Maurice where we left the Route to start a 67 mile diversion via Moutiers then back North West before a big circle to the Maurenne valley to Modane.
Approaching Modane we joined the Route going the wrong way passing the sign confirming that Col du Galibier was FERME meaning another departure from the Route tomorrow.
We have noticed as we go through the towns that this is dead season with hardly anywhere open. We had contacted our hosts for tonight and they had confirmed that no where was open in Bessans and we should drive down to Lanselburg where restaurants would be open. Wrong! Several would have been open later in the week but Wednesday or Thursday to Sunday seemed to be the order of the day. Only one establishment was open and we didn't fancy a formal meal. We had bread, ham, cheese etc with us so decided on a picnic evening meal.
We found our B&B Chez Mamie Anna easily and Fabrice showed us to our lovely spacious room. There was a delightful lounge and kitchen area available with a fire and free tea and coffee as well as fridge, freezer and a good selection of cookware.
The cloud had finally broken and some snowy tops were now visible over the wide green valleys. We decided to go straight out again and drove up the road passing the Route Barree a 13km for around 10km. It was beautiful and we spotted several marmots scurrying around on the hillside.
We returned to our lodgings and settled in out comfortable room for our meal and then, French TV gabbling in the background to hit the Internet.
STATS
Depart: Le Chinaillon, Grand St. Bornand 09:45
Arrive: Bessans 18:50 (After passing and heading 10km up Southern closed Col d'Iserran and returning)
Distance driven: 207 miles (Note: Diversion from Rte des Gnd Alpes due to Col d'Iseran Closure)
L'Alpage was lovely with a comfy bed and nice decor involving a lot of wood. There were a few other people but as the Restaurant was closed except for us residents we only saw three other guests.
A superb Savoyard Fondue with salad and nuts was served as our meal. The owner was chatty and we learnt that you keep the heat on but constantly stir and fold it. The bread served should be two days old in preference so as to soak the juice without falling apart before coating in the cheese from deeper. The house white wine was excellent and we followed with a shared Raspberry sorbet with stunning flavour.
We loved the meal and the atmosphere but definitely OD'd on cheese which may have been the reason that I developed a very dodgy stomach during the night causing us to lose a lot of sleep and leaving me to be feeling delicate for much of the following day. (note: there was nothing wrong with the food or service, it was just my reaction to so much melted cheese and wine.)
We were jumped awake by the sound of bells outside and looked out of the window to see a herd of sheep with bells around their necks being shepherded along the street outside. Breakfast was good, though a little tentative for me as above.
The weather was very disappointing. When we first opened or curtains we couldn't see anything through thick mist and for the entire morning we drove in rain and mist with only rare and very limited views from the roads and none of mountain tops.
Today we already knew that we could not follow the Rte. des Granges Alpes as the Col de l'Iseran (Val d'Isere) is still closed and will remain so to around 6th June. The alternative plan was to follow the Route over Col d'Arivis and Col du Saizes then cross the Cormet de Roseland as far as Bourg St Maurice where we left the Route to start a 67 mile diversion via Moutiers then back North West before a big circle to the Maurenne valley to Modane.
Approaching Modane we joined the Route going the wrong way passing the sign confirming that Col du Galibier was FERME meaning another departure from the Route tomorrow.
We have noticed as we go through the towns that this is dead season with hardly anywhere open. We had contacted our hosts for tonight and they had confirmed that no where was open in Bessans and we should drive down to Lanselburg where restaurants would be open. Wrong! Several would have been open later in the week but Wednesday or Thursday to Sunday seemed to be the order of the day. Only one establishment was open and we didn't fancy a formal meal. We had bread, ham, cheese etc with us so decided on a picnic evening meal.
We found our B&B Chez Mamie Anna easily and Fabrice showed us to our lovely spacious room. There was a delightful lounge and kitchen area available with a fire and free tea and coffee as well as fridge, freezer and a good selection of cookware.
The cloud had finally broken and some snowy tops were now visible over the wide green valleys. We decided to go straight out again and drove up the road passing the Route Barree a 13km for around 10km. It was beautiful and we spotted several marmots scurrying around on the hillside.
We returned to our lodgings and settled in out comfortable room for our meal and then, French TV gabbling in the background to hit the Internet.
STATS
Depart: Le Chinaillon, Grand St. Bornand 09:45
Arrive: Bessans 18:50 (After passing and heading 10km up Southern closed Col d'Iserran and returning)
Distance driven: 207 miles (Note: Diversion from Rte des Gnd Alpes due to Col d'Iseran Closure)
Day 1 Thonon to Le Grand Bornand
Monday 26th May 2014
Hotel last night was lovely and we slept well. After a good breakfast (French) we headed off towards Thonon le Bains on the shore of Lac Leman (aka Lake Geneva) where the Route des Grandes Alpes starts.
As soon as we left Bourg en Breasse, the terrain changed entering high rolling hills. We chose to use the autoroute as this was just getting to the start and it is quite a feat of engineering with carriageways perched on steep hillsides and tunnels and viaducts.
As far as we can tell, there is no definite start point for the Route des Grandes Alpe but we chose a roundabout on the D902 next to the Quay which seemed very appropriate. As we. left the town we passed a brown sign indicating the existence of the Route but there is no signage to follow.
The early part of the D902 winds through deep gorges and woodland with tumbling rapids of ice blue waters. Cloudy and drizzling, we could tell higher hills were there in the distance but no see them. Many switchbacks on the route eventually dropping to the major town of La Cluses.
Leaving La Cluses behind we wound up steep inclines and with the sky breaking up with occasional blue patches, the intense greens of the mountain sides were populated by chalet farmsteads with the clunking of cow bells drifting across. Valley bottom covered with rich long meadow grass full of wild flowers.
Over our first pass, Col de Colombiére which has been open for a while. At the top it was clear that this is a between season time with gift shop locked up and what looked likely to be the owners fixing rails around the entrance.
We dropped down to Le Chinaillon, a small conglomeration of hotels and restaurants short of La Grand Bonand and found our lodging for tonight, Hotel L'Alpage. We think we may be the only people here and they phoned us when we were on the way to say that all the restaurants are closed this evening so would we like them to prepare something for us? Also, what time were we expected because they needed to go out?! It's a lovely place, all wood and smells of sauna. Compact but nice room with a balcony and view of the slopes.
STATS
Depart: Bourg en Bresse 10:00
Arrive: Thonon 12:05
Depart: Thonon 13:00
Arrive: Le Chinaillon, Grand St. Bornand 16:50
Distance driven: 149 miles (including from lodging to start of Route des Grandes Alpes)
Hotel last night was lovely and we slept well. After a good breakfast (French) we headed off towards Thonon le Bains on the shore of Lac Leman (aka Lake Geneva) where the Route des Grandes Alpes starts.
As soon as we left Bourg en Breasse, the terrain changed entering high rolling hills. We chose to use the autoroute as this was just getting to the start and it is quite a feat of engineering with carriageways perched on steep hillsides and tunnels and viaducts.
As far as we can tell, there is no definite start point for the Route des Grandes Alpe but we chose a roundabout on the D902 next to the Quay which seemed very appropriate. As we. left the town we passed a brown sign indicating the existence of the Route but there is no signage to follow.
The early part of the D902 winds through deep gorges and woodland with tumbling rapids of ice blue waters. Cloudy and drizzling, we could tell higher hills were there in the distance but no see them. Many switchbacks on the route eventually dropping to the major town of La Cluses.
Leaving La Cluses behind we wound up steep inclines and with the sky breaking up with occasional blue patches, the intense greens of the mountain sides were populated by chalet farmsteads with the clunking of cow bells drifting across. Valley bottom covered with rich long meadow grass full of wild flowers.
Over our first pass, Col de Colombiére which has been open for a while. At the top it was clear that this is a between season time with gift shop locked up and what looked likely to be the owners fixing rails around the entrance.
We dropped down to Le Chinaillon, a small conglomeration of hotels and restaurants short of La Grand Bonand and found our lodging for tonight, Hotel L'Alpage. We think we may be the only people here and they phoned us when we were on the way to say that all the restaurants are closed this evening so would we like them to prepare something for us? Also, what time were we expected because they needed to go out?! It's a lovely place, all wood and smells of sauna. Compact but nice room with a balcony and view of the slopes.
STATS
Depart: Bourg en Bresse 10:00
Arrive: Thonon 12:05
Depart: Thonon 13:00
Arrive: Le Chinaillon, Grand St. Bornand 16:50
Distance driven: 149 miles (including from lodging to start of Route des Grandes Alpes)
Journey to Start
Check in at Dover for P&O Ferry 15:10 and initially journey went well but by the time we'd suffered delay with roadworks and slow down due to torrential rain, the final straw was a slow M25. GPS was reading arrival time as 15:08 with over 100 miles to go and I was sure we'd miss it. However, after leaving the M25 behind, we made excellent time even gaining a few minutes (no cameras I hope). We drew up to check in after 6h30m trip with a couple of minutes to spare stressed and relieved to be told they were running 20mins late!
Great crossing with good timing. Fortunately we had eaten sandwiches before boarding because the queues on board for anything to eat were horrendous.
Arrived in Calais and drove 10 min to the ibis hotel just outside the town. Had a nice meal in their own restaurant before retiring. Room was comfortable though quilt was too warm and we failed to open the window so didn't sleep too well.
A long day's drive from Calais to Bourg en Bresse, 450miles. We used the autoroute all the way and were doing around 125kph most of the time but were still very glad to arrive. We found the Logis de Breu hotel easily and delighted in it being very French including decor and colours which would be seen as eccentric at home. The room was homely and we had a balcony with a view across the rooftops of the town.
The hotel is located just across from the Abbey, the prime touring spot which has an extraordinary multicoloured patterned tiles roof. The white stone glowed in the evening light and the carvings around the entrance were detailed and beautiful.
It is clearly dead season and only one restaurant of a row remained open. We sat outside next to a quiet road looking at the Abbey as we ate, something which the guidebooks infer is rare as the place is normally so busy.
After eating, we walked around the Abbey then ambled through the streets of the town itself which has many really old buildings as well as smart shops. Again, virtually deserted by restful and enjoyable.
Great crossing with good timing. Fortunately we had eaten sandwiches before boarding because the queues on board for anything to eat were horrendous.
Arrived in Calais and drove 10 min to the ibis hotel just outside the town. Had a nice meal in their own restaurant before retiring. Room was comfortable though quilt was too warm and we failed to open the window so didn't sleep too well.
A long day's drive from Calais to Bourg en Bresse, 450miles. We used the autoroute all the way and were doing around 125kph most of the time but were still very glad to arrive. We found the Logis de Breu hotel easily and delighted in it being very French including decor and colours which would be seen as eccentric at home. The room was homely and we had a balcony with a view across the rooftops of the town.
The hotel is located just across from the Abbey, the prime touring spot which has an extraordinary multicoloured patterned tiles roof. The white stone glowed in the evening light and the carvings around the entrance were detailed and beautiful.
It is clearly dead season and only one restaurant of a row remained open. We sat outside next to a quiet road looking at the Abbey as we ate, something which the guidebooks infer is rare as the place is normally so busy.
After eating, we walked around the Abbey then ambled through the streets of the town itself which has many really old buildings as well as smart shops. Again, virtually deserted by restful and enjoyable.
Planning and Closures
This all started as spending a few days driving down from North West England to the South of France over a few days. We haven't visited the Alps for many years and had fond memories of Alpine meadows full of flowers in summer and recollections of going through recently opened passes in the Pyrenees through banks of snow in June which we guessed may be similar in the Alps.
Lynne came across the "Route des Grandes Alpes", a route from Thonon les Bains on Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) crossing many Alpine passes down to Menton on the French Mediterranean coast close to Italy. It seemed an ideal route for us and we set about checking distances and routes and finding places to stay.
The Rte. des Gnd. Alpes does not seem to be laid down firmly in all opinions but we found what seemed to be the intended itinerary and worked from that. It is seemingly popular with cyclists and motor cyclists as well as driving and many people suggest diversions to off route places of interest.
We had started booking accommodation when we became aware that several passes (Cols) were still closed to traffic. Further investigation revealed that even when we are travelling at the end of May some passes would still not be open. It became apparent that we may end up just going from hotel to hotel via diversions out of the mountains and back and do little high pass travel.
We had great difficulty getting reliable information on this with many contradictory sites even ones which appeared to be current. However, we eventually settled on several traffic sites associated with Department websites as follows.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
TO BE UPDATED IN NEXT FEW DAYS!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
These appeared to be current and informative as detail would change sometimes from days to day.
Over the days before we left, several Cols moved from Closed to Ouvert or less obstructed but as we left, three key cols were still showing closed meaning that we have to plan for changed routes on days 2 and 3.
Col de l'Iseran (day 2)
Col du Galibier (day 3)
Col d'Izoard (day 3)
Lynne came across the "Route des Grandes Alpes", a route from Thonon les Bains on Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) crossing many Alpine passes down to Menton on the French Mediterranean coast close to Italy. It seemed an ideal route for us and we set about checking distances and routes and finding places to stay.
The Rte. des Gnd. Alpes does not seem to be laid down firmly in all opinions but we found what seemed to be the intended itinerary and worked from that. It is seemingly popular with cyclists and motor cyclists as well as driving and many people suggest diversions to off route places of interest.
We had started booking accommodation when we became aware that several passes (Cols) were still closed to traffic. Further investigation revealed that even when we are travelling at the end of May some passes would still not be open. It became apparent that we may end up just going from hotel to hotel via diversions out of the mountains and back and do little high pass travel.
We had great difficulty getting reliable information on this with many contradictory sites even ones which appeared to be current. However, we eventually settled on several traffic sites associated with Department websites as follows.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
TO BE UPDATED IN NEXT FEW DAYS!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
These appeared to be current and informative as detail would change sometimes from days to day.
Over the days before we left, several Cols moved from Closed to Ouvert or less obstructed but as we left, three key cols were still showing closed meaning that we have to plan for changed routes on days 2 and 3.
Col de l'Iseran (day 2)
Col du Galibier (day 3)
Col d'Izoard (day 3)
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